RV Electrical Safety: Part III – Outlets

Aug 11th, 2010 | By | Category: RV Safety

The No~Shock~Zone: Part III – Outlets

Understanding and Preventing RV Electrical Damage

ADDENDUM – 208-volt voltage readings on 3-phase outlets

©Mike Sokol 2010 – All Rights Reserved

If you’ve read the survey we did July 2010 in www.RVtravel.com, you know that 21% of RVers who answered the survey have been shocked by their RV.  Review the 21% report at http://new.noshockzone.org/15/.  What follows is #3 in a 12-part series about basic electricity for RV users and how to protect yourself and your family from shocks and possible electrocution.

This series of articles is provided as a helpful educational assist in your RV travels, and is not intended to have you circumvent an electrician. The author and the HOW-TO Sound Workshops will not be held liable or responsible for any injury resulting from reader error or misuse of the information contained in these articles. If you feel you have a dangerous electrical condition in your RV or at a campground, make sure to contact a qualified, licensed electrician.


Last week we learned how to read a basic Digital Volt Meter and test a 15- or 20-amp standard outlet such as you might find in your living room or RV interior. Now it’s time to move up the ladder to testing 30- and 50-amp campsite outlets. Again, you’ll be handing live voltage so take all safety precautions.

  • Only use one hand to touch the meter probes or campsite pedestal. Electricians are taught to put their other hand in their back pocket so they don’t lean on anything.
  • Don’t stand on wet ground while testing outlets. If the ground is perfectly dry you should be safe wearing dry sneakers. If not, then put a dry rubber shower mat down on the ground to stand on while checking voltages.
  • Always make sure to turn off the circuit breakers on the power pedestal before plugging or unplugging your RV from campsite power.
  • Safety or even standard prescription glasses are highly recommended. These don’t have to be anything fancy, but if something goes wrong you’ll be glad you were wearing glasses. I owe my eyesight to the fact I was wearing glasses when an electrical panel shorted out right in front of my face. It’s cheap insurance.

Bigger Outlets

Today’s RVs have much greater power requirements than those of even 10 years ago. You’ve got lots of appliances, so that single 20-amp outlet can’t provide enough current. This is when you need to step up to 30-amp outlets at the campsite. Let’s see how they’re wired.

Here’s a side-by-side comparison of both a “home-style” 15- or 20-amp outlet on the left and a special “RV” 30 amp outlet on the right. Next week we’ll get into how the amperage rating affects the number of appliances you can run, but for now we’re just measuring voltages.

The first thing you need to note is the orientation of the ground lug on both sockets. Click HERE or on any picture for a full-size  illustrationyou can print out.  Last week we used a 20-amp outlet for an example with its U-shaped ground lug at the bottom, while in this picture the ground lug is at the top. That was not a mistake, as most home outlets are wired with the ground at the bottom, and most electrical panels are wired to more recent code with the ground at the top. It doesn’t really matter which way the socket is wired as long as you keep your own head right-side-up. So if you’re looking at an upside-down outlet, turn the illustration upside down to match the outlet. While most casual RVers will recognize the little U-shaped hole as the ground, it’s the other two slots that get confusing. As we learned last week in Part II, on a 15- or 20-amp outlet, the taller slot is always the Neutral wire, and the shorter slot is always the Hot wire. Here’s a little more info: if you peek inside an electrical panel or extension cord plug, the ground wire is always GREEN; the Neutral wire is always WHITE; and the Hot wire is always BLACK. This holds true for both the pedestal outlets as well as any extension cord you may have. However, on a 30-amp outlet, there’s no difference in size between the Hot and Neutral slots when viewed from the outside. So here’s where you just have to remember this fact or print this page out. Think: While looking at the front of the outlet, if the ground is at the top, then the “white” is on the “right.” That’s how I remember it. If you’re looking at the back of the receptacle you’ll see two different colored screws, and the white wire goes under the white screw while the black wire goes under the brass screw — but we’re getting ahead of ourselves as that’s a future article on testing extension cables.


Remember to set your voltmeter to an AC Voltage scale more than 250 volts, typically 600 or 750 V AC. Plug your meter leads into the Black COM and Red VOLTS connections on the meter, and get ready to poke the meter probes into the receptacle. Now turn on the circuit breaker in the campsite pedestal and push in the reset button on the GFCI if it’s popped out.

You can see from the red triangle diagram in the middle of the illustration that from Ground to Neutral you should measure close to 0 (zero) volts. From Hot to Neutral you should measure around 120 volts, and from Ground to Hot you should also measure around 120 volts. Probe between each two slots and note whether the voltages are correct. Be especially careful that the Neutral to Ground reads 0 (zero) volts and the Hot to Ground reads around 120 volts. If not, then the polarity of the plug is reversed and your RV could exhibit a Hot-Skin condition or trip an internal circuit breaker when you plug it in, depending on how it’s wired.

You can accept as low as 108 volts and as high as 132 volts on a 120-volt feed using the 10% plus or minus rule, but realize there will be additional voltage drops at the pedestal outlet when you draw any amperage, and you’ll also have a few volts loss in your extension cord(s). So it’s better to start with at least 115 volts on an unloaded pedestal since it really needs to stay above 110 in your RV to guarantee that none of your electronic appliances suffer from brown-out problems. (See part VI of this series about voltage drops). Plus a green ground wire could have up to 2 or 3 volts between itself and neutral,  but any more voltage on the ground wire means the outlet is wired incorrectly so DO NOT PLUG IN YOUR RV. Notify the campsite manager immediately and get this checked out by an electrician. Do not open the pedestal box yourself and poke around inside.

What’s This 240-Volt Thing?

Perhaps the most confusing part of hooking up an RV is that some plugs are 120 volts while others that look similar are 240 volts. Just how do they manage to get two different voltages out of the same wires? Glad you asked.

If you remember our water tank example from Part I: the taller the tank, the greater the pressure. And since voltage is really electrical pressure, the same idea holds true. Look at the tank on the left and imagine you’ve got a pressure gauge that reads the difference between two pipes. So if you read between the red pipe at the top and the black pipe at the bottom, your gauge (or meter) will indicate the full pressure, which is in this case 240 PSI (Pounds per Square Inch). However, if you hook up the gauge (or meter) from a center pipe to ether the top or bottom pipe, it will indicate exactly half the pressure, which in this case is 120 PSI. The exact same thing happens at the power transformer on the pole feeding into your house or RV site. You really have 240 volts available, but there’s a center tapped transformer rather than a pipe. So if you connect a meter (or appliance) between the Red and Black wires, it will receive the full electrical pressure, which is 240 volts. But pick only the Black or Red “hot” wire and hook the other side of your meter or appliance to the center-tap White “neutral” wire, and you’ll have exactly half of the full voltage, which will be 120 volts.

50-Amp Outlets

So if your RV has a 50-amp, 120/240-volt plug for its power connection, you really have to understand what you’re hooking into and testing is critical.

Take a look at the illustration on the left. You’ll see a standard 120/240-volt, 50-amp receptacle as found in many campgrounds. Look at the illustration on the left and you’ll see that the slots are placed like a little baseball diamond. If it’s oriented according to code with the U-shaped ground at the top, then follow along. If you plug your meter probes from Home plate (Neutral) to 1st base (Hot 2) you should read around 120 volts. From 1st base to 2nd base (Ground) you should also read about 120 volts.  From second to third base (Hot 1) should read approx 120 volts, and finally from 3rd base back to home you should read  approx 120 volts. Now, from home plate to 2nd base you should read close to zero (0 to 2) volts, and from 1st base to 3rd base you should read between 230 and 240 volts.

So as you move your meter probes around the bases, every slot to the next slot should read about 120 volts. As you read sideways across from the left side (Hot 1) to the right side (Hot 2) you should read between 220 and 250 volts. And, as you measure from top (Ground) to bottom (Neutral), you should read close to zero (0 to 2) volts.

If your meter reads anything else, STOP IMMEDIATELY, shut off the circuit breaker and notify the campground electrician. Do not plug in your RV or any other gear as it could be damaged or you could be electrocuted.

Thanks for the Memories

You don’t have to remember all these connections we’ve discussed as each of the plug diagrams above has been scaled for printer output. We’re adding tags to each picture so you can just click and print them out.  Put these pages in a notebook and you’ll always have a power plug reference for when you roll into a new campsite. And after a few times it will seem quick and simple, so don’t become complacent. You could test 99 campsites as perfect, but it could be number 100 that has a wiring issue that could electrify the skin of your RV or destroy every electric appliance you have plugged in. Don’t take a chance. Always test before plugging in. And, as always, if you think there’s an electrical problem with your RV or campsite outlet, don’t try to fix it yourself. Get a licensed electrician to make the repair. And, if you ever feel a shock from your RV, immediately get away from it and shut off the circuit breaker in the campsite pedestal. Then notify the campsite electrician and refuse to hook up power until the problem is resolved.


Since the latest revision of the National Electrical Code now allows RV parks to use two legs of 3-phase power for 50-amp/240-volt outlets, there’s one additional voltage reading possibility that’s perfectly safe and acceptable. This is something called a 120/208 3-phase WYE service. In that case, you will still read 120-volts from the neutral to any of the hot legs, but 208 volts between the hot legs, instead of 240 volts you would normally expect.

So in a campground with a 50-amp/240-volt outlet, once you determine that the voltage from the neutral to each of the hot legs measures 120-volts, if the hot-to-hot voltage measures 208 volts (instead of 240 volts) that’s perfectly safe and normal. That just means that the park is distributing 208-volt/3-phase power, which is now code compliant.  I’ll do an entire article on this later with a video showing how 3-phase power works.


After you’ve read this article at www.RVtravel.com, take a trip over to www.NoShockZone.org and send us your  comments and suggestions. We love to know how we’re doing with this important project. Part IV of this series will cover amperage and what it means before you plug into a campsite. Stay tuned.

Mike Sokol is the chief instructor for the HOW-TO Sound Workshops (www.howtosound.com) and the HOW-TO Church Sound Workshops. He is also an electrical and professional sound expert with 40 years in the industry. Visit www.NoShockZone.org for more electrical safety tips for both RVers and musicians. Contact him at mike@noshockzone.org.

33 Comments to “RV Electrical Safety: Part III – Outlets”

  1. Lloyd Guillot says:

    I have always stayed away from testing anything electrical. Your explanation is so good and gives a method to visualize and remember about the outlets and hookups that I look forward to checking the hookups.


    • Mike Sokol says:

      Thanks for your comment. I had hoped the diagrams would help make testing a little easier to understand.


      • Bo says:


        I have read several of your posts and still haven’t been able to figure out the situation with my Motorhome. The electric distribution panel brakers for the shore and generator power are heating up to between 140 to 150 degrees. In some of the posts I noticed that a common theme for heat generation was loose connections in the box. After making sure all connections were tight the problem still is unchanged. Is this normal and safe to live with?

        • Mike Sokol says:

          Either their being overloaded with too much current, or there’s oxidation on the connections where the breakers plug into the bus bar. I would suggest pulling each breaker and making sure the bus bar and breaker contacts are undamaged and then clean them with a good contact cleaner.

  2. Jim says:

    You can’t over-emphasize the need to check the park ped EVERY time you hook-up. I checked a ped one day (I use a Good Governor with 30/50 amp cord) and everything was fine. Next morning I took my coach in for service so, when returning that evening to the same spot I saw no reason to check the ped. I plugged the coach into the 50 amp and quickly discovered I had power to only one leg of the coach. Somehow, the 50 amp outlet malfunctioned during the day. While that presented no danger, it was a lesson to me to check EVERY time.

  3. Michael Erps says:

    I like your common sense approach to explaining electricity. My dad used the same method of teaching us kids when we were younger. I still see a water pipe when I look at an extension cord.

    • Mike Sokol says:

      Yup… I read the water pressure/current comparisons to volts/amps in an old book I found in the library when I was 13 years old or so. It’s what allowed me to get my mind around electricity some 40 years ago, so it’s an oldie but goodie.

  4. Bill says:

    Thank you for the ez lesson. The print out is going on the compartment wall next to my power cord.

  5. Paul says:

    I would like to see more about test results on a 50a 120v/240v outlet. Specificaly, what it may mean when each power leg tests normal to ground and neutral, but shows 0v across the two power legs rather than 240v. I have been in RV parks where this is the case, one in particular where I know the park was wired by licensed electricians, and the “50a” outlets have been in use like this for over 10 years. Can a 50a outlet be wired to test like this and NOT present a hazardous overheat potential on the neutral wire?

    • Mike Sokol says:


      That info goes into the next installment where we discuss amperage. In a quick sentence or two, it’s possible for a 50-Amp / 240-Volt campsite outlet to be hooked up improperly so that both Hot 1 and Hot 2 connections are wired to the same leg of the incoming transformer. In that case, the current in each 50 amp leg would add together on the neutral line rather than subtract, causing it to return up to 100 amperes of current and probably burn up. As I said in Part III, if you don’t read 240 volts from H1 to H2, then something is wrong with the campsite outlet wiring. If you proceed to plug in and use it after reading 0 volts from H1 to H2, you’ll probably overheat your neutral wire which can cause a fire since there’s no circuit breaker in that leg of the circuit.

      IMHO: I wouldn’t trust that parks “licensed” electricians since that’s against all electrical codes that I’m aware of.


  6. Proto says:

    Well done. With your diagrams and explanation anyone with a meter should be able to test the circuit and know what the results mean.

  7. WoodcarvingGypsy says:

    Your set of articles are really timely. We just got our first camper with a 50 amp lead so I’ve been researching how to put a power outlet next to it. The discussion on the 50 amp service and that it really is a 50 amp/220 circuit took away a lot of confusion. I’d been told that both power legs needed to come from the same side of the box but that really didn’t make sense. This clarifies the issue and now I can proceed.

    One other topic that may be useful to others is proper sizing of the wire as well as what to use if you are having to bury in service to a pad. My plan is to use conduit (18″ down in conduit vs. 24″ down direct bury) and to use direct bury in the conduit.

    Keep up the series. I’m going to print these and have them in the RV for reference.


    • Mike Sokol says:

      You might contact these guys for information on properly installing your own power pedestal at home. http://www.rvpoweroutlet.com/. They sell to campsites as well as consumers who want to install a proper “campsite” outlet at home rather than running an orange extension cord out the garage window and across the yard.

      Also, the next few articles will cover what amperage is, how to size wire, and how to calculate the current draw from various appliances. Don’t worry, they will have minimum math and maximum usability.


  8. John Pasko says:

    Love your presentation of an otherwise complicated subject–electricity!!

  9. Gary says:

    What damage should I expect when connecting a 30 amp rv plug to a panel that has been connected 220 instead of 110. Thanks Gary

    • Mike Sokol says:

      Resistive appliance loads such as a coffee pot or electric griddle will heat up very quickly on 240 volts compared to 120 volts, in fact four times as fast. That’s because a resistive load that draws 1,000 watts of power at 120 volts will draw 4,000 watts of power at 240 volts. Of course, after just 30 seconds or so they’ll burn out, possibly catching on fire. Appliances with electronics won’t fare as well since transistors con be destroyed with a single pulse of over-voltage. So your microwave, flatscreen television, inverter, and anything with a computer inside will die in seconds, at most. In fact, by the time you realize you’re connected to 240 volts rather than 120 volts, all the damage will have be done to your appliance electronics.

      This sometimes happens in an RV with a loose or damaged neutral line on a 120/240-volt power feed. Since you’re feeding the RV with a center-tapped 240-volt transformer, if one side of the line swings down to 60 volts due to high resistance on the neutral return, the opposite side of the line will swing to 180 volts. So if you see some lights in your RV getting very bright, you need to disconnect power very quickly, within a few seconds at most. That’s only possible if you have an automatic voltage protector on the incoming shore power.

  10. Doug McCormick says:

    I had an interesting service call about 30 years ago, a WATER SOFTENER installer called and said he just got shocked by something a lot more than 120 volts. I told him I would be enroute to his location immediately.
    While I was driving over there, the lady of the house decided to use her microwave, which exploded in a fireball.Then she turned on the television and it too went up in smoke. She wisely diecided to quit touching electrical things. After checking the mobile home very carefully, I found that the ALUMINUM GROUND WIRE and the STEEL GROUND ROD WITH PIPE CLAMP CONNECTION WAS CORRODED AND NOT WORKING.
    ALSO, THE NEUTRAL WIRE COMING FROM THE UTILITY POLE TO THE TRAILER POLE, WAS PASSING THRU A PINE TREE. THE PINE TREE, BEING ABRASIVE LIKE SANDPAPER, WAVING IN THE BREEZE FOR 20 YEARS, HAD CUT THE NEUTRAL WIRE IN HALF. So the only thing making ground in that mobile home was the copper water pipe that went underground. When the water softener installer cut that in two, he had voltage in each hand and he was lucky to be alive! I called the power company to replace the power drop from the pole to the mobile home pole, plus I repaired the grounding connection with COPPER WIRE AND A BRONZE ONE BOLT CONNECTOR TO A GALVANIZED GROUND ROD. PROBLEMS SOLVED.

    • Mike Sokol says:

      Yes, open neutrals can produce all sorts of strange voltage and current loop effects. And the same sort of condition you witnessed can easily happen in an RV with a 50 amp 120/240 volt plug. If the neutral connection opens up due to a corroded contact or broken wire, then the 120/120 incoming voltage can swing to 60/180 or 20/220 volts, or whatever it feels like depending on the imbalance of the RV loads. I have heard of one RV owner who had a shared satellite coax feed wire to the RV beside it. But his neutral line opened up, so now the shield of the coax cable became the neutral return to the second RV from the first RV with the open neutral connection. They said that the coax cable got hot enough to melt the insulation off the outside, which I don’t doubt a bit. That’s why it’s even more important for owners of large RVs with 120/240 volt 50 amp shore power plugs to make sure their connectors are properly maintained, and the campsite pedestal has the proper voltages and grounds. Really bad (expensive and dangerous) things can happen if you ignore electrical safety rules.


  11. David Hyatt says:

    Tanks for the great tips. I have something I don’t quite understand. If I plug the camper cord into a outlet that is reverse polarity, then the skin goes hot, into a normal outlet, it is not (well, around .5 to 2 volts under load).

    • Mike Sokol says:

      If you plug an RV into a campsite outlet with just the (H)ot and (N)eutral lines swapped, the skin of the RV should NOT go hot. If it does, then your RV is probably mis-wired with its (G)round and (N)eutral busses bonded together in your power panel. If you plug into a correctly wired campsite outlet, it should NOT have a .5 to 2 volt change in the skin voltage of the RV referenced to the earth, because the chassis (G)round of the RV should be isolated from the incoming (N)eutral. If the (G)round and (N)eutral busses are incorrectly bonded together, then any normal voltage drop in the (H)ot wire will be matched by an equal voltage drop in the (N)eutral wire, which would be cross connected to the (G)round. So the way your RV is acting, I’m guessing that your (G)round and (N)eutral busses are incorrectly bonded together in your RV’s circuit breaker box. Please have a qualified RV technician check your RV for separated G and N busses. The only time the G and N busses should be bonded together is via the transfer switch when you’re running on a generator. On shore power the G and N busses should remain separated (unbonded).

  12. Bob Rohrmann says:

    I just read your article, No Shock Zone. Part Three. Testing campground outlets, which is a very good primer for those not familiar with basic electricity. I do have an issue with the discussion of only 240v pedestals for the 50 amp services. It needs to be explained that there are also 208y/120v services in some campgrounds that will also provide the correct 120v per leg, but will cause panic to those not aware of this acceptable voltage. Instead of seeing 240v across the two hot legs, there will be 208v, but there will still be 120v from the neutral and also from the ground to each of the hot legs. I have found this voltage at several campgrounds in our travels. I am a retired electric utility lineman, so I understand what the different voltages are all about.

    • Mike Sokol says:

      Bob, that’s a good point. I’m an industrial power guy, so I understand 3-phase as well. I’ll add an update to include 208 or 240 volts from leg-to-leg as being acceptable.

      Mike Sokol

  13. rick says:

    i need some electrical help…. am planning on upgrading park to Several 200 amp panels feed thru. for 50 amp pedestals ….. how many 2 pole 50 amp bkrs per 200 amp service can i run. and am i correct on 4/0 direct burial.and loop pedestals

  14. David says:

    Hi Rick,
    Thanks very much for the informative articles. As a first time trailer purchaser, I really appreciate all the great advice. I have a question re this article, when connecting Hot1 and Hot2, why would I expect 204V to be displayed on a volt meter? Pulling from the earlier articles, if I’ve got two equal sized buckets of water holding the same amount of water, wouldn’t the difference in pressure (read:volts) equal zero?

    • Mike Sokol says:

      The water bucket analogy breaks down a bit with split-phase 120/240 volt AC power. You need to consider that there are two buckets on either side of the gravity center (both sides of the earth) which one bucket’s water being pulled “up” and the other being pulled “down”. Golly, figuring out how to teach this stuff is a lot harder than when I originally learned it in Electrical Engineering classes nearly 40 years ago. Yikes!!!

      • David says:

        Thanks very much for the reply. Noted! I’ll be sure to double check for between 220 and 250 volts when checking these 50 amp outlets. And if I decide to learn more about this type of outlet, I now know to read up on split-phase power; thanks very much!

  15. troy says:

    This all makes great sense. I still have confusion on my particular situation. I have a 98 5th wheel that I just bought. It cam with a large 50 amp cord and a slightly smaller 30 A cord as well. On the exterior of the RV is a Connector for the RV power. The Larger 50 A cord connects on to this and twist locks on, the catch is that on the end that twist locks on to the RV has just 3 connections as does the RV itself, however the other end is is a 4 prong 50A male connector. I know I can use adaptors and go down to the 30A into an extension cord but we have wired a 50A RV box but given that the 50A cord has 4 prongs (2 hot, Neutral and ground) and the end that plugs into the RV has just 3 as does the plug on the RV we just ran our hot lead to one side of the RV outlet box we wired but got nothing when plugged in. Given that the 50A cord goes from 4 prongs to 3 I do not want to hook up both 120V legs as they appear to possibly be tied together?. Ran out of daylight and am going to meter everything next but according to this article and others RV outlets (50A) are wired with the 2 hots, one on each side and the common and the ground. If I pulled into an RV lot and took my 50A cord that plugs directly into my RV and plugged my 4 prong 50A cable into the 50A provided outlet at the RV park given that I only have 3 connections on the other end would that not send 240V to the RV? Guess the question is why does my 50 A cord have 4 prong on the side that would plug into the Park Service but only 3 prongs on the RV side? Lost on if I need to wire both sides hot as stated on the RV service I installed but do not want to feed 240V to it of course. 1998 Collins 5th Wheel

  16. troy says:

    Simplifying my question. I believe I understand what is stated in the article and am sure on how to check those voltages but not sure how the fact that the 120v on both sides of the plug do not send 240V into your RV? Is this wiring considered 120V? Is the 120V on each side provided by the 2 seperate main 50A circuit breaker feeds or slots? Seems that given the fact that my RV along with most are 120V. I would believe that if I plugged my 120V RV into this that is described above that it would send 240V into it and fry the electronics? My confusion is that even though my RV is 120V it has this exact 50A plug that is described here and one end plugs directly into my RV and the other right into this 50A outlet as shown above. The 30A cord that came with the RV plugs in nowhere on the RV and adaptors would be needed to convert it to even plug into the RV outlet on the exterior of the RV and another adaptor to plug into an extension cord. So a little confused on how to proceed.

    • Mike Sokol says:

      It’s a bit confusing, but most American and Canadian wiring we have in our homes and campgrounds starts out at 240-volts on the power pole, but is “split” into two separate 120-volt wiring legs, typically colored black and red. The white neutral wire is essentially at “earth ground” voltage. So a 120-volt appliance is connected to the neutral and either of the hot legs. But a 240-volt appliance such as your home’s electric stove uses both of hot wiring legs. So if you measure from neutral to either of the hot legs you’ll get 120 volts. But if you measure across the two hot legs (red and black) you’ll get 240 volts.

      Note that nearly all trailers with a 50-amp plug are not wired internally for 240-volt appliances. Instead, they split the incoming 240-volts into two separate 120 volt feeds. So that actually gives you a total of 100 amps of 120 volt power for all your RV appliances.

      However, in your case it sound like your trailer is wired to use only ONE side of the 50 amp pedestal outlet with the 4 pin 50 amp outlet. So you only have 50 amps available instead of the 100 amps total for most RVs. And if you use the smaller 30 amp shore power cord, you only have 30 amps available to power your RV.

      Bottom line is you can plug your half-phase 50-amp shore power cord into a properly wired 50-amp 120/240-volt outlet with both the red and black wires and a neutral, it will still only receive 120 volts between the neutral and the one hot it’s connected to. And that’s exactly how it’s supposed to work.

  17. Lamoine Tedrow says:

    Hi, I have a Progressive SSP-50 surge protector and I’m having a problem. When I plug it in at my home at my 50amp hookup it shows to have an open ground. I was reading the lights wrong and thought that all that was supposed to be lit was the green so I plugged in the 2012 Prowler. I then noticed that the #1 red light was on. I reread the instructions and saw that that is the correct way it should be lit. Anyway it shows that I have an open ground when the coach is not plugged in but shows that everything is fine when the coach is plugged in. Any ideas on that? I did talk to the guy at Progressive and he helped me out but I didn’t have enough time to get to all of my situation with him, very nice guy by the way. I hope to visit with him more this coming week. Any help will be appreciated.

    • Mike Sokol says:

      Your readings seem to indicate that you have an open EGC Ground on your home outlet, and your RV has a Ground-Neutral bond internally. If so, then that’s a code violation and potentially dangerous since your RV must have its neutral separated from the chassis ground. You need to get an electrician to confirm that the 50-amp hookup at your home is properly grounded, and the neutral in your RV is separated from the chassis ground while unplugged. You really need an RV technician or electrician to help you test this unless you’re trained to work on live circuits.

      • Lamoine Tedrow says:

        Thank you for your advice. I will get in touch with the proper people and go from there.
        Thanks again……Lamoine

Leave a Comment